Natural Hair & Naturale Freedom for All WomanKind Basic DIY
This course will give tricks of the trade to help you achieve your DIY from a licensed professional in the business of Cosmetology and Natural Hair who has been doing natural hair before it became a phenomon. Many clients always have questions about their hair and how to maintain their Natural Curly or Kinky Hair. This course will give you the basics for you to build upon. You will learn about how to maintain your Blowout/Silk Press and Protective Styling Techniques after leaving the salon or in between services. I also realized not everyone can afford to come to the salon frequently and I wanted make sure those women and young ladies where also equipped to minimize any damage to their beautiful naturally curly or kinky tresses. This is a foundation on the basics and why we do the things we do in a healthy way. Once you get the foundation you can build upon it all!
Naturale Hair for All Womakind
Going natural is an individual choice. However, for many this is or was a daunting decision of the unknown. I’ve seen clients and heard of others going back to relaxers only to come back with their tail between their legs wishing they had stayed natural.
Some people are all or nothing. I for one have always wanted people to be well informed in order to make the best decisions for their life and lifestyle.
10 Reason To Go Natural!
Why Go Natural? Well their are a number of reasons why you should, but is it for you? Is the real question. Here is a list of 10 reason why you should GO NATURAL!
1. Chemical FREE
2. Less frequent salon visits
3. Falling in love with the natural texture that God gave you.
4. When it rains you are unbothered
5. You have the best of both worlds... textured/curly hair and straight Silk Press (straight hair minus the chemicals)
6. Extreme hair growth
7. The healthiest hair you’ve ever had since birth!
8. Protective styling is so versatile! You can where a different style everyday.
9. People have become so open and accepting of natural hair. The more we love it the more they have to accept it!
10. Natural Hair is Unapologetically DOPE!
Curls and shrinkage will happen no matter how your curls are formed. From loose curls to kinky curls your hair will shrink. You can add products to elongate your curls temporarily but it will shrink. You can receive a Keratin Treatment to elongate (not straighten) your curls for up to 3 to 4 months. Even when you get a Silk Press it will temporarily elongate your curls as you go from curly to straight (Silk Press) and back again.
Looking for a Natural Hair Stylist can be difficult when you don’t know what your looking for and the skills they possess. This video will help you decipher which stylist is best for you. It must be a healthy match!
You will here people and a few stylist who maybe for or against straightening your naturally curly tresses. Well, no one can tell you how to wear your hair. As long as you maintain the integrity of your hair and your hair is healthy, i’m not seeing an issue.
When straightening the hair you can also choose to lower the heat if your hair is easily compromised. Hair that is easily compromised are those with thin, soft strands. Also those with a “Z” pattern (somewhere passed a 4c) the hair appears to curl but does not curl but actually forms a “Z”. Wherever the “Z” connects is where the hair can break via heat or basic manipulation such as combing the hair. Treat all hair as if it is delicate because it is.
After blow drying you do not have to do a Silk Press before styling. After you blow dry the hair you can actually begin styling the hair. Turn down the heat if your hair is easily compromised.
1. 1/4 inch partings (for a straighter look)
2. 1/2 inch partings for volume and/or if you want to minimize potential heat damage if you’re more susceptible to it. *(Be ok with hair being thicker at the roots).
3. Turn up the heat or turn it down depending on desires look or if you need to for the sake of your hair.
4. Pincurls SAVES HAIR! Nothing is wrong with a good pincurl after a straightening the hair.
5. Wrapping Hair keeps the oils flowing. After straightening the hair, there is maintenance! When you wrap the hair with a silk or satin scarf at night you are essentially creating a SLEEK straight look the next day. By wrapping the hair you will also help the hair’s natural oils move through the hair shaft from root to end. Your natural oils protect the hair. This is why it is best and advised to straighten the hair at least once a month, once every two to three months or when the seasons change.
6. YES! People with curly, coily, and kinky hair have natural oil. Are those hair types more dry? YES! Which why we add oil and moisturizers to give it more moisture and shine to seal the cuticle.
7. Please wear a silk or satin scarf and throw a silk or satin pillow case on your pillows at home. *Tip It’s a good thing to have a travel pillowcase and scarf.
8. The right Flat irons and Blow Dryers are so important! Make sure you are using a ceramic flat iron and blow dryer. They have benefits that will make your hair styling go smoother. Evenly distributed heat, positive ions, pulls the oils and brings out the shine in hair. Seals the moisture.
Bottom line... Know what is in the products you are using before using them! Make sure it is nothing that will harm your hair or scalp long term or short term.
Anything you place your your Know that scalp, hair, skin or nails are all made of the same thing Keratin. Anything you place on the scalp should be gental and mild. Plant based is best but at times synthetic ingredients are needed for the best end results.
Knowledge of hair and scalp issues is essential to understanding which product will work for or against your natural curls and scalp. Dandruff, Seborrheic Dermatitis, Psorisis, Ezenma are your well known issues of the scalp. As you watch the video you will understand each.
Braids, Extension, Weave and Wig Knowledge. Never be afraid to try something new. These added additions can glam our look or just give you what out need on a bad hair day to save the day! The problem comes when these tools/additions are worn to long and the hair and scalp cannot be properly shampooed. The other issues particularly with braids and weave is the hair becoming matted. This can be problematic causing you to possibly cut your hair defeating the purpose of using this method of protective styling. A month to two months is the suggested max to keep any commercial hair that has been added. Remember, clean hair is healthy hair!
Let's Get Ready to BLOWOUT and SILK PRESS!
Clean Hair and Scalp is Healthy Hair and Scalp.
*Generally, natural hair clients shampoo their hair every two weeks. That is the length of time in which any professional stylist will recommend a client go without shampooing their hair. Once a week is not an issue but please make sure you are using Sulfate Free Shampoos and deep conditioning the hair. Many natural hair clients opt to shampoo once a month as to not manipulate the hair as much but that can create an issues depending on your scalp and texture. That is a personal choice but we aware of the type of hair texture you have and density as to potential issues that may arise when going too long without shampooing your hair and scalp properly.
Shampooing w/Weave or Braids
**For those using weave and commercial hair for braids as a protective style PLEASE be very careful and mindful of the length of time between shampoos because many opt to only shampoo once a month or once every two months. You cannot get a thorough shampoo underneath the hair that is braided down under the sewn in hair or braids. Oils, sweat and product build up can create a problem over time that was not present.**
*Sulfate Free Shampoos are using on all hair types but are highly recommended on curly hair textures of from 2c to 4c. They are gentle to the hair and scalp. It will clean without stripping your natural oils or being abrasive to the scalp.
*Cleansing Shampoo has some sulfates but will cleanse the hair and scalp but may be too abrasive for some and not others. Still be careful over using this product as it can dry out the hair and scalp if over used on a texture or strands of hair that are more delicate.
*Clarifying Shampoos has sulfates and are great for cleansing the hair and scalp. It will strip the hair of all oils and anything on the hair or scalp. Used once a month for product build-up “Naturalistas” is a great way to get the hair clarified and prepared for more product or a Silk Press. Think of an oil spill and having to use a detergent to help clean the oil off the animals such as a duck. It it similar to the ingredients used for that purpose. It will also remove any medications you have been taking.
*No Poo-Shampoo is completely sulfate and SUDS Free. No suds in this product. If like the effect of no suds then this is the product for you. We have been condition to “suds” as a way of know the product is on that part of the hair and hair is getting cleaned. Well, there are now product that produce no “suds” but effectively cleanse the hair.
*Conditioning/Conditioners are what seals the deal on how well the hair will perform. Make sure you are moving the product from “root to the ends” of the hair shaft. You can also combine treatments to get the best results for your hair. Ex) Mixing an “Oil Treatment” with a moisturizing Conditioner with a Hydration Steam Therapy Treatment.
*Co-Poo is a way many who love to stretch out their shampoo like to do. It is a process of using conditioner after you have rinsed your hair with water (without using shampoo). Using a large tooth comb to move the product then style as usual. This is also a why of not manipulating the hair too much or stripping the natural oils.
Steam Conditioning Treatments aka Hydration Treatment is a way to create a deeper more penatrable conditioning after a shampoo. You can add oil to create a Hot Oil Treatment or Protien Treatment. Steam opens up the cuticle and deepens the conditioning process. It also aids in infusing moisture along with your moisture driven conditioner. It hydrated the hair and scalp making the hair more pliable and softer.
The best and biggest benefit to many is the because your curly or kinky hair gets the moisture it’s missing when wearing a Silk Press the hair does not revert as quickly. If Silk Press is your go to style weekly, bi-weekly or monthly, a Protien Treatment combined with a Moisture Conditioner Treatment will keep thr hair’s integrity in tact.
*Aphogee Protien Treatment
*Design Essentials Express Conditioner
*Taliah Waajid’s African Healing Oil
The purpose of Conditioning Steam Therapy Treatments are to moisturize and hydrate the hair follicles. It deepings the Conditioner, hot oil treatment or protein treatment you decide to use on the hair. It also aides in processing color using moisture oppose to using dry heat which can dry out the hair. However it is mostly used to help infuse moisture making the hair more pliable and manageable.
Proper Blow Dry
What to look for in a proper blow dry depends on what your are trying to achieve for the finished look. If you are looking to have bone straight hair or if you are concerned about having volume and movement there are technics to prepare for and achieve the finished look your desire.
*Blow dry for a bone straight Silk Press
1. Consistency. Your hair should be consistently straighter (not flat iron smooth but blow dryer smooth) and smooth from root to ends using the highest temperature on the blow dryer.
2. The hair should have a nice defined sheen
3. The hair is healthy and ready for a straighter look of a “Silk Press” (silking the hair with the flat iron then going back and styling with the flat iron). This will prepare the hair for a bone straight look and feel.
*Blow dry for fullness and “Volume Press “ or prep for Dry Sets
If you are someone who likes your hair to have fullness and have lots of volume turn down the heat of the blow dry and instead of “Silking” (flat ironing) the hair first before styling with a flat iron, you go straight into styling with your flat iron at about 325° to 375° (depending on your texture. Textures 3c to 4 c can take a little more heat) This is also good to prepare for for dry sets.
1. Hair is consistently less smooth from root to end.
2. Hair has a softer sheen
3. Hair is healthy and prepared for a volume styling with a flat iron or a dry set such as a two strand twist or rod set.
Silk Press Styling
When you decide to “Silk Press” your hair please make sure your hair has been properly conditioned and is at a high moisture levels. When hair has high moisture it helps the hair from reverting faster. If hair is missing moisture and you go out into a humid environment the hair will begin to revert fast. That is because the hair is missing something... MOISTURE! If you want to maintain your “Silk Press” or “Volume Press” adding a “Conditioning Steam Treament” aka (Hydration Treatment) will aid in deepening the conditioner and infusing moisture into the shaft of the hair keeping the hair from frizzing and puffing up into an Afro when you want it to be straight.
1. 1/4 inch partings for straighter hair. Larger partings for Hair you wish to have more volume.
2. A light low heat blow dry after you “Silk Press” and before styling will help smooth out the hair a bit more and prepare for precision trims or hair cuts. It will also allow the natural oils to surface to protect the hair. Many have textures that can withstand heat at 450° without compromising their curly textured tresses.
3. If you are desiring a “Volume Press” same thing applies except you will begin styling the hair from a low heat blow dry. Trust! Hair that is trained will look beautiful and volumouness without wing bone straight. Great candidates for this technic and look are those with thing strands and softer hair textures not wanting to compromise their curl pattern. Anyone else is desiring less heat are also not wanting to compromised texture over direct heat.
4. All heating tools are not created the same! Make sure you are using a ceramic blow dryer and flat iron. It is very important for the integrity of the hair.
5. Moisturize! Moisturize! Moisturize! Then do a protein treatment once a month to strengthen the hair if your going to straighten your hair more than you like wearing protective/textured styles.
6. If you are going to wear your hair straight, know you will have to trim (1/4 inch or less hair) more often. My “Silk Press” clients trim once every 6 to 8 weeks.
Hair Maintenance Days After a “Silk Press” or “Volume Press”
***KEEP ADDITIONAL HEAT OUT OF THE HAIR***
It’s easier said than done for many to not apply more heat to their hair in order to achieve or maintain a “look”. Many clients who have taken matters into their own hands have also reap their actions.
1. More dryness
2. Hair breakage
3. Compromised texture (curls no longer bounce back to) hair is more wavy than curly. Too some it looks straighter and lack life.
4. You will either choose to cut out the wavy/straighter pieces or allow it to grow out using less heat.
5. You can have ii both ways but you must do what is necessary to achieve the b3st of both worlds.
6. It’s ok to put a light natural oil on your hair if it feels dry. Mororacan Oil is one I recommend because they have two versions (original and light) and it only takes a dime to a nickel size for the hair to get what it needs. It will help smooth out the hair hair and cut the frizz if any appears.
7. Sleep on a Silk or Satin pillow case. This keeps your hair from loosing it’s natural oils which are their to protect your hair. Same thing with hats. Make sure they are lined with Silk or Satin... if they are not get a piece of Silk or Satin fabric from your fabric store and line/sew it in yourself. By doing this you will give your hair life! Cotton pillow cases are great for absorbing sweat and moisture from our bodies but bad for the hair. Cotton pillow cases will rob your hair of the natural oils there to protect the hair. Henceforth will cause dryness and breakage.
8. Pincurl, wrap or set on rollers then apply the Silk or Satin scarf to help proctect the hair during the night. Yes, ladies what our grandparents did has never really gone away because it’s back with a vengeance! The bed head is dead and so will your hair be if you do not do anything to properly care for and maintain your beautiful wavy, curly, coily and kinky tresses!
Day 2 of Pincurls.
The maintenance is simple and necessary in order to provide overall healthy of your hair after a Silk Press/Straightening the hair. This is one of 4 ways of keeping heat out of your hair. A silk or satin scarf or bonnet is then placed on your hair for additional protection. Always have a silk or satin pillowcase
4. Placing hair in a pineapple with a loose band.
This is Day 3 of Pincurls.
You will see how the hair looks after 3 days of mantenance after a Silk Press/Straightening the hair. Please do not forget to place your silk or satin scarf or bonnet on your hair. Never forget your silk or satin pillowcase!
Hair texture is so important in order to understand how best to master yours is key. The video will help you understand that it is not about ethnicity but hair texture. You may one texture or a combination of all textures. I explain the labeling system for those who need a breakdown of texture. Since this system of labeling 2a to 4c came from enthusiastist and not hairstylist you may not hear it in many salons. Most hairstylist will use straight, wavy, curly, curly-coily, coily and kinky. It’s more simplistic.
**Use heat protectant, leave-in conditioner, cream moisture styling product, cream gels, or setting lotion for natural hair.**
Pineapple Updo: This is an easy style to achieve. Take your Shampoo & Go to the next level. Remember to be liberal with your products because curly and kinky hair textures need the extra moisture or hold if your are defining and molding the hair. It’s best to allow this style to dry naturally without heat. If heat is needed to get some moisture off the scalp by all means a hooded dryer or diffuser will do the trick for 10 to 15 mins.
In this video I LIBERALLY used a leave-in conditioner with heavy moisture content and light gel to help define. Sometimes I use on my the leave-conditioner. Use products that is best for your texture to get the best results! Add a little drama by swirling your edges!
**Use a cream moisture styling product, leave-in conditioner, cream gels, or setting lotion for natural hair.**
Shampoo & Go! Is exactly what you think it is accept, you must add product LIBERALLY! Don’t forget you are working with textured curly and/or kinky hair and it needs moisture products to give it life. You want to make sure the hair is completely covered with the product of your choosing. This will keep the hair from drying out. Use your fingers to style the hair verses a comb. You can easily place and manipulate the curls as you like without disturbing your natural pattern. It is best to allow this style to dry naturally. It allows the curls to form naturally minimizing frizz.
If you feel the need to get some moisture off the scalp diffuse or sit under a hooded dryer for 5 or 10 mins max. Yes, curly and/or kinky hair will have shrinkage. There is no way around that no matter which texture from 2a to 4c hair. All have a varied amount of shilrinkage. You must learn to manage your natural hair texture for it to respond well and look it’s best.
Keep in mind in’s you can layer your product but keep in mind ingredients are important because some products do not mix well and may leave your hair with white balls from the product not emulsifying (blend) well. It could be one product is oil based and the other is water based with no added ingredient to allow the product to emulsify (blend) well. In that case you will have to shampoo and condition the hair once and start over.
**Use a cream moisture styling product, leave-in conditioner, cream gels, or setting lotion for natural hair.**
Coil-sets are so easy to create and maintain because it will follow your natural curl pattern as you finger it or use a comb. I love this style for growing out from a Big-Chop or a short style. Minimal manipulation required! There is not stretching to make your hair form around a perm rod or flex-rod to create a look. Once your hair has dried and days go by the hair natural unfolds to blend with your natural texture without much manipulation. Add oils when needed and sleep in a silk or satin bonnet. Wake up the next day and fluff! Working out with this style is a breeze. It’s simple, uniformed and functional no matter the setting or lifestyle.
**Use a cream moisture styling product, leave-in conditioner, cream gels, or setting lotion for natural hair.**
In this video I selected to do a dry rod set. Many understand how a Wet-Set looks like. A Dry-Set will allow your hair to have an elongated naturally stretched out look. And you do not have to sit under the dryer for as long as you would if you were setting the hair wet.
**Use a moisture styling product, cream gel, leave-in conditioner, or a setting lotion for natural hair. **
Flat twist are not my favorite with my hair texture but from time to time I will venture to style it this way. For the sake of showing you how simple it is to style this way I have sacrificed my normal styling routine.
I absolutely love a Top Knot! It’s so simple! You can do it wet or dry. When you need a quick chic polished look, it meets the need.
**Use a heat protected, leave-in conditioner, natural oils, gel for edges**
Braided Up-Do! The braided Up-Do is a style using commercial hair or “extension” hair added to or placed upon the hair. In the video I first braided the hair tying the ends with a rubber-band. After blow drying my hair, I smoothed my hair using my denman brush creating tutted ponytails. With the braided commercial hair, I then placed the piece on top and the bottom ponytail and wrapped each braid. You easily make this a larger braid for more drama.
Halo Braid! I love this simplistic look that you can build upon. In the video I used my own hair. After blow drying (you can create this style with wet/damp hair), I created a side part then proceded to braid each side. This can easily be turned into something dramatic by added commercial hair if you love drama or if you have short hair. Adding hair will give you volume to otherwise short or and/or thin hair.
Embrace all color! There are so many ways to embrace color from enhance your natural to totally changing your look. Either way is a good thing as long as it does not compromise your hair. You can go from hair rinses to permanent. Do not be afriaid of hair color but be caustious of Hairstylist who are not also Colorist. A Colorist has mastered their craft and as a Hairstyist who is also a Colorist is an awesome combination! You have found a WINNER because you can all your needs met in one place with the same person who knows your hair. Many salons have compartmentalized skills for mastery. All in all you have options!
Types of Hair Color
*Rinse: non-permanent temporary color or hair tint. Useful for covering grey hair or evening out highlights. It does not penatrate the hair and generally last up to 2 to 4 shampoos.
*Henna: A natural herbal powder used for hair color but also helps to prevent dandruff and scalp itching. It acts as a good conditioner for hair and helps it to grow. Similar to a rinse as it will tint the hair. Henna for hair color is used as natural hair coloring process. Great for people who desire some hair color but maybe allergic to ingredients in commercial hair color process used in salons. Henna is an ancient hair coloring process. The processing time is much longer than with other color processes but the benefits are mild and wonderful.
*Color Glosses/Semi-Permanent: Is a semi-permanent color treatment that can last from 4 to 6 weeks. Most formulas are tinted although transparent shine, protein, are available. A gloss coats and seals the cuticle for a smooth surface. Great way to try a new hair color without it permanency. It contains no ammonia or peroxide. It’s mild enough to use on permed or relaxed hair. Perfect for naturally curly hair!
*Demi-permanent color: Contains no ammonia and deposits only. It is mixed with low-level developer to help open the cuticle and last upnto 24 shampoos. This type of color is great for blending grey, enhancing color, refreshing color, toning highlights, or for color correcting.
*Permanent color: Color treated hair is when the hair shaft has been opened and color is added using a developer. This process is also known as “oxidation” per peroxide is an ingredient within the color that helps create permanent color. They are not applied as often. It is applied to the root of already color treated hair in order to not over-process the hair. Permanent color can be more damaging because the chemicals used are stronger and the mixture has to be left on the hair for a longer period of time. Permanent color does not rinse or fade out, it must grow out or it can be covered or changed by using color.
Baby and child hair care! I know many of you are excited about anyone addressing this topic. Hair care for children is very simple but we as parents complicate it like we do most everything. To lessen the stress I have created this video to speak to you as parents of children of both genders to help you. "KISS!" Keep IT SIMPLE STUPID! Our children keep everything simple and so should we.
7 TIPS for Babies and Kids *
1. Shampoo and Condition the curly/kinky hair with the same shampoo you would use. Baby shampoo that is on the market is relabeled to sell the same in a different bottle. Baby shampoo with "NO TEARS" is marketed to caucasian hair types (straight hair). It will dry out anyone (not specific to ethnicity) with curly or kinky hair. Refrain from using the "No tears" brand if you want your baby's hair to maintain it's health and moisture.
2. Lean your child back into their baby tub or if you are using the bathroom or kitchen sink, stretch your child across the counter and lean the head back into the sink securing their neck with a rolled up towel for comfort. Use a wash cloth to apply 1st the shampoo and then the conditioner. Use a wash cloth to also rinse and a small cup to help remove the water. Their hair is so gentle once shampoo will do the trick! Then apply conditioner. Finish by adding a leave-in conditioner because it is mild and will add moisture to the hair. Then add olive oil.
3. Yes! Olive Oil! It is mild and gentle enough to use on the hair and scalp of a baby. Olive Oil is plant based and unlike Coconut Oil which is a nut oil, Olive Oil will not cause any allergic reactions in babies. Using a Shea butter is a bit mild and you can try your hand at using this product as well as combine it with the Olive Oil. Do not be afraid to layer the products to get maximum results. It can be applied daily if needed. I used Olive Oil on my baby when she was a baby to help reduce cradle-cap. It also help to give the hair shine while sealing the cuticle of her hair reducing frizz.
4. As the child becomes older you can venture into using other types of oils and moisture products that aid in keeping the hair healthy, moisturized and minimizing frizz.*
5. Choose 2 to 4 go to hair styles that you can do to keep your life simple and stress free. Babies do not require much. Please refrain from adding commercial hair into your baby/child's hair. Their hair is super fragile especially if the hair is on the 4c side and beyond "Z" pattern! Those with 4C with a "Z" pattern hair does not curl in an "S" formation. It can break pretty easy. Do as you please but you have been informed! A baby's hair texture will undergo several changes by the time they are 6 years of age. After 6 the hair texture will be what it will be from that point throughout adulthood. Length and density will be the next stage if not compromised by over manipulation to achieve a look.
6. Hair trims... Yes, you can trim your baby/child's hair. For babies can be done in their sleep if they move a lot. You are only trim less than 1/4 of an inch. You can do this once or twice a year.
7. Salons, Hair Schools and YOU. If you are able to afford to take your baby/child to the hair salon by all means do as your wallet allows. Hair Schools are the best and the most cost effective. A baby/child is only going to get the basics... shampoo, conditioner, blow dry (if requested) and a simple child like style. ex:) One ponytail, two ponytail, three ponytails, braided straight back or up, or other Protective Textured Styles such as a two-strand twist. You... You doing their hair will create memories and a bond even if you lead a busy lifestyle. You will learn more about your baby/child's hair and haircare needs. Products that do and do not work well. Whenever you choose to take them to the Salon or Hair School it is a treat for special occasions.
**From my years of experience by the time a child reaches the age of 12 they are ready to begin going to a salon periodically (once a month) or regularly (bi-weekly) to start learning more about their hair and how to maintain their naturally curly or kinky tresses. This way a child a equipped before going to college as to what and what not to do with their hair. And they will not allow anyone to damage their hair because they know what and what not to do.**
THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! I truly hope these videos were informative and gave you the foundation to build upon to maintain and style your natural hair. Remember health hair over length and a clean hair and scalp is healthy hair and scalp! Never compromise your the health of your hair and scalp for a style.
*Please feel free to send an email if there are any question you may have that I did not address. Those will be questions I address in another video. ¡Adiós por ahora! (Bye for now!)